🔗 Share this article

When compiling a roll of London’s finest dining spots, one might foresee well-known Michelin-starred venues. Yet, tucked high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a far-flung corner of north London.

A Unexpected Honour

The small Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a influential culinary publication. The recognition has made the proprietors completely shocked.

“I’m completely astonished,” remarks a family member, pointing to his family’s hard graft that resulted in their modest shop earning such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

This compact space, which used to be a simple cafe before its change into a sought-after destination, has kept much of its earlier character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking performance, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It’s a small and stocky place,” notes the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the fare, and this restaurant definitely succeeds. The eatery’s signature dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is prepared via steaming to keep a moist, juicy quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with seasonings and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to soak in all the flavours. Finely sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is wrapped securely inside.

It is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The outcome is a powerful slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all together.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic called this dish “one of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For sweets, the eatery’s künefe proves a delight. It is doused in lighter syrup than is typical, imparting it a more intense, toastier and not overly sweet flavour.

Rising Above the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the peak of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave this place full for less than £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can run into many times that figure.

A Ethos of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s compiler, who remarked that if he were in a role of power, he would “require to have every chef in London come to this spot as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of excess, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do just one – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Journey of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs running kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is owing to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Recognition for the Community

This restaurant’s recognition is bound to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” concludes the owner, emphasising the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.